
I was talking to m about Brazil etc etc and he goes, i’m sure you went to a favela, didn’t you? I am predictable, I thought. Or m knows me so very well. It was a warm and nice feeling anyway and I am happy if people think this is the typical thing I’d do.
But it’s true. There are a few things to I want to do in my life and one was to visit a slum.
First things first, this is probably the lamest thing to say, the word visit used together with slum. Sort of oxymoron, as the taxi drivers in Rio would remark, favelas are not a place to visit “because they’re ugly and people are ugly too”. I figured out that anyway our idea of tourism and traveling substantially differs from the Brazilian one, at least in Rio.


Recollection washes away feelings and I still have to digest a lot from this travel. I still have all these compacted feelings all mixed and mashed and they can’t really find an easy way out.
Favelas of Rio are one of the many contradictions of this city. Favela is a term derived from the hardy plant that resists to all adverse conditions and grows on tough terrains. Not surprisingly the inhabitants of favelas live in the most adverse conditions too - and sometimes, by choice.
Surprisingly, it turned out that living in the slum is not necessarily synonimous of extreme poverty. Some inhabitants of the favela really have nothing - but others do have a job, or sort of, they just do not afford enough to pay bills or taxes. So they live in this sort of no man’s land. There is officially no tax payer here - that is why it is so hard to figure out how many people live here. The favela we visited (Rio has several), Rocinha, is the biggest and has a population of some 60K people. Still, in a way or another, people manage to get electricity and water, the main road is served by public transportation, and there’s even a creche.
So what’s the problem? The inner irresponsibility of the city towards the favela made the general corruption and overall catastrophic hygiene, safety and security conditions the status quo. People do not leave the favela not to pay taxes - and tax payers refuse to help the favela population to improve their condition. Not to mention that traditionally favelas are the place for all sort of illegal activities - specifically drug manufacturing and dealing. Besides, the taxi driver on the way to the airport, as all taxi drivers so far, gets angry when the favela get in the conversation - and adds that with our visits we are just contributing to increase the corruption of the locals, to keep the tourists safe. This is probably true - moreover I think most people would not walk around alone and that it is pretty easy to squeeze money out of the average Western tourist (we insisted on not taking the tour; managed to find an alternative way and paid approximately the half of what the tour coasted, so I think it’s true, that no doubt it is another way to speculate.)
So an apparently easy to solve issue (burn down and build from scratch) seems against everybody’s interest, for different reasons. What happens then? Nothing. The status quo is the winner - at least until the world won’t realize this is just making things worse.
No doubt tax payers reclaim the help government gives to favela for themselves. No doubt there are basic human rights abused that very much deserve priority. There’s no easy way to fix this. But who is making the most out of this is definitely not the favela inhabitants, nor the average Brazilian tax payers. In fact there’s probably enough money to make both happy. Rocinha is situated, and this is the most shocking part, right next to some of the fanciest districts of Rio. Copacabana is only 15 minutes away. Sao Conrao is literally on the other side of the street.
There’s a fact: human rights do not exclude each other. The right of those who want to see their rights represented - such as living in peace, prosperity and all the rest of the stuff brought you by the welfare you’re paying for - should not exclude the right of others to basic services like electricity, or public hygiene keeping. So I do not believe in this war of poor VS poorest. This goes only in the interest of those who really have enough money or power or both to solve the issue; and do nothing about it, leaving people fight over the crumbles. This was my overall perception, carefully matured over, oh, the course of half a morning visit, so it does not pretend to be exhaustive or anything.
It is just a confused mix of feelings that is taking much of the room in my stomach lately.